I don’t really know what to say when people ask me what I am doing in Mumbai. Am I a tourist? Am I a resident? Yes, I came as an exchange student, but classes have been out for over a month, and I’m still in this sublime world. I work, I have an apartment, I travel without a map. Can this small city girl call herself a resident of Mumbai?
No, I don’t have any papers that will attest to such residency, and yes I did have a return ticket when I landed here. So, I will leave the question unanswered, and today play ‘tourist’.
I haven’t done or photographed many touristy things. I love to visit temples, but there are no photos allowed—understandably. I started yesterday with a visit to the Hare Krishna Hare Rama temple in Juhu. Once I arrived, I learned the temple didn’t open for another two hours, so I wandered down to Juhu Beach for a little walk. Once defeated by the Indian sun, I found a restaurant next door to the temple. It was very busy, there was a waiting room, and people signed their names down and waited for a table. A lover of afternoon naps, I immediately noticed how comfortable the waiting room was, and with no intention of eating, signed my name down and claimed a comfy chair.
I wake up and its 3:45 p.m. The lights are off, and it is 15 minutes till temple opening (thanks internal clock!). I walked over to the temple, and asked a security guard if I could take a photograph. He asked a couple of his colleagues, then invited me to take the shot. Crouched on the pavement with camera in hand the same colleagues started yelling at me. Naturally, I pointed to the man who said I could take a photo and they started yelling at him. I slowly backed away from the loud Hindi whirlwind.
At 3:58, I am yelled at for approaching the tall black doors, which are ornate with gold, and strikingly contrast with the immaculate white of the rest of the building. At 4:00 we begin to trickle in. The interior is stunning, and roofless towards the back where a tree sprouts through.
The seminar begins with a monk who chants prayers and repeatedly invites the crowd to raise their arms and chant “Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna, Krishna”. He then poses a question, and everyone raises their hand.
An American man behind me asks, “What are they saying?”
The two Indian girls giggle, bring their focus back to the monk, and I too am reminded that I am an outsider. Behind the monk the wall is divided into three sections, draped by a bright orange curtains. Part way through the ceremony they pull away, and idols are present in each section. Presumably the idols are Krishna (where is Professor Salmond when you need him?).
Monks stand before the idols waving incense, presenting flowers, and commit other oblations in unison. Devotees begin to walk around the temple, and many take pause to lie face down on the ground--the kind of humility that is universal in religion. The walls are decorated with dioramas illustrating Krishna performing miracles in his many avatars.
Later in the day, I attended the Mumbadevi Temple, which along with the Hare Krishna Hare Rama temple is one of the most famous in the city. It is far smaller, and downtown, but the seminar is also beautiful. As it is in Crawford market, an area that sells everything and anything, the atmosphere upon exiting is less serene. Before I can say anything a man is saying a prayer, tying a string around my wrist and adorning my forehead with a bindi.
“200 rupees: I am a Brahmin”
Later, I had dinner with some friend’s on Marine Drive, where I found out that a few of them belong to the Hare Krishna Hare Rama temple, and invited me to various fairs and festivals. Excited!
No, I don’t have any papers that will attest to such residency, and yes I did have a return ticket when I landed here. So, I will leave the question unanswered, and today play ‘tourist’.
I haven’t done or photographed many touristy things. I love to visit temples, but there are no photos allowed—understandably. I started yesterday with a visit to the Hare Krishna Hare Rama temple in Juhu. Once I arrived, I learned the temple didn’t open for another two hours, so I wandered down to Juhu Beach for a little walk. Once defeated by the Indian sun, I found a restaurant next door to the temple. It was very busy, there was a waiting room, and people signed their names down and waited for a table. A lover of afternoon naps, I immediately noticed how comfortable the waiting room was, and with no intention of eating, signed my name down and claimed a comfy chair.
I wake up and its 3:45 p.m. The lights are off, and it is 15 minutes till temple opening (thanks internal clock!). I walked over to the temple, and asked a security guard if I could take a photograph. He asked a couple of his colleagues, then invited me to take the shot. Crouched on the pavement with camera in hand the same colleagues started yelling at me. Naturally, I pointed to the man who said I could take a photo and they started yelling at him. I slowly backed away from the loud Hindi whirlwind.
At 3:58, I am yelled at for approaching the tall black doors, which are ornate with gold, and strikingly contrast with the immaculate white of the rest of the building. At 4:00 we begin to trickle in. The interior is stunning, and roofless towards the back where a tree sprouts through.
The seminar begins with a monk who chants prayers and repeatedly invites the crowd to raise their arms and chant “Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna, Krishna”. He then poses a question, and everyone raises their hand.
An American man behind me asks, “What are they saying?”
The two Indian girls giggle, bring their focus back to the monk, and I too am reminded that I am an outsider. Behind the monk the wall is divided into three sections, draped by a bright orange curtains. Part way through the ceremony they pull away, and idols are present in each section. Presumably the idols are Krishna (where is Professor Salmond when you need him?).
Monks stand before the idols waving incense, presenting flowers, and commit other oblations in unison. Devotees begin to walk around the temple, and many take pause to lie face down on the ground--the kind of humility that is universal in religion. The walls are decorated with dioramas illustrating Krishna performing miracles in his many avatars.
Later in the day, I attended the Mumbadevi Temple, which along with the Hare Krishna Hare Rama temple is one of the most famous in the city. It is far smaller, and downtown, but the seminar is also beautiful. As it is in Crawford market, an area that sells everything and anything, the atmosphere upon exiting is less serene. Before I can say anything a man is saying a prayer, tying a string around my wrist and adorning my forehead with a bindi.
“200 rupees: I am a Brahmin”
Later, I had dinner with some friend’s on Marine Drive, where I found out that a few of them belong to the Hare Krishna Hare Rama temple, and invited me to various fairs and festivals. Excited!
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| Refreshments on Juhu Beach |
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| Colourful Corner of Crawford Market |
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| Only picture I got of Hare Krishna Temple |
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| The Queen's Necklace (Marine Drive) |
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| Life on the Queen's Necklace |
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